Warehouse for contraband
Davidsen previously cooked the stars - and literally a Michelin star - in the sky at restaurant Speilsalen at the Brittania Hotel in Trondheim. The culinary scene in the Norwegian city is impressive, and here, too, he was already throwing high points together with his right-hand man, sommelier Henrik Dahl Jahnsen. 'It was always my dream to open my own restaurant. A place where everything comes together: the finest wine, the best food, top hospitality and a special location.' When historic Toldboden came along, Davidsen did not hesitate. 'This really is a landmark for Trondheimers, it has stood right by the sea for over a hundred years. The former toll house was a warehouse for contraband. The building is robust and stately, built of black granite.' And that matches the experience Davidsen and Dahl Jahnsen envisage: 'At that special place by the sea, in Trondheim's old port, we want to surprise guests with a playful gourmet bistro where we combine fresh local produce with flavours and spices from all over the world. We do this as artisanal as we are innovative and always in combination with the best wines from our huge wine cellar.'
"The robust premises and the quality of the gourmet bistro called for tough and pure materials"
Tough and pure materials
Where once contraband was piled high in every nook and cranny, there is now room for guests who can appreciate Nordic cuisine. Silje Alger Svensson and James Richardson of SJ Design drew the interior of the new world spot. And that was quite a challenge, Alger Svensson acknowledges. 'Fortunately, Davidsen and Dahl Jahnsen see the importance of a good interior in the overall experience. The food and wine can be good, but if the ambience is not right, the experience is not optimal. At the same time, we had to navigate between a lot of restrictions. In such a historical monument as Toldboden, it's a matter of finding what is allowed and seeing the opportunities in it'. For instance, the designers were bound to light colours on the walls of the restaurant, and nothing was allowed to change original elements on the walls in the ceilings. 'So we chose softer, modern elements that we placed loose in the space. This way, there is air between the traditional and more contemporary elements and they can blend harmoniously.' Planters, seating and curtains create atmosphere. 'The robust premises and the quality of the gourmet bistro called for tough and pure materials: think leather, solid oak, handmade tiles and stainless steel.'
Rich history
Tollbua has now been open for over six months and you must make reservations well in advance for a place in the restaurant or in the Chef's Kitchen, Davidsen's 'office' where he literally gives 12 guests a peek into his kitchen. There is a perfect spot in the bistro for every occasion and every guest: be it at the Chef's table, with a direct view of the chefs, or the Champagne table, surrounded by the finest bottles of wine or in private dining area in the Orangery. Eyecatchers are the luxurious, long bar, the comfortable lounge for aperitifs and a delectable snack menu. Also special are the two large high tables, which the designers had made from old wooden beams left over during the renovation. They did not have to clear the field but have been lovingly crafted into tables with a great texture that breathes the history of this special building. Alger Svensson: 'Great that the beams are now still doing their bit as beautiful tables to add to the already rich history of the building. Because the best way to preserve our heritage is still to enjoy and appreciate it.'
New kid on the block
Tollbua opened its doors in February this year and is the Matigruppen AS' first shop, but probably not the last. They themselves call it the 'forever' flagship store. Ambitions are high at this 'new kid on the block' in Trondheim's restaurant scene. Tollbua ('toll house' in Norwegian) is the brainchild of Christophe Davidsen, who won silver in the prestigious biennial competition for chefs in Lyon - the Bocuse d'Or - as well as starred as chef of Speilsalen restaurant at the Brittania Hotel in Trondheim. David's right-hand man is top sommelier Henrik Dahl Jahnsen, with whom he already formed a golden duo at Brittania. The two intend to change the culinary landscape of the Nordics forever. And they seem to be succeeding quite well. Within three months of opening, Tollbua could already count on a recommendation in the Michelin Guide.
